Now that we are in the Festive Season and have entered that escalating countdown to Christmas, I figured it is the time to talk about Balinese ceremonial food and, in particular, Bali’s ‘national’ dish, Babi Guling, Suckling Pig.

 

What is it that makes Suckling Pig so delectable? I recently had lunch with a friend from Australia who said he dreams about Ibu Oka’s Suckling Pig when he is away from Bali. Imagine that. Here we are, sitting in my restaurant, Casa Luna and eating take-away Suckling Pig, drooling over its many virtues.  There’s something dreadfully wrong with that picture. 

 

Ibu Oka needs no introduction in Ubud and has become an Indonesian household name, selling suckling pig  in both Ubud and Mas village. It was Ibu Oka’s mother-in-law, Gung Niang Guling, who set the trend by spit-roasting these fat-bellied piglets at the family compound in Tegal Sari, Ubud. Gung Niang Guling was one of those table-carrying D.I.Y. food stalls on legs, selling Babi Guling in the village under the banyan tree. The space was shared with a few other Balinese mums. This is where it all began.

 

Nowadays, in the busy season, more than twelve suckling pig are roasted and carried down to the warung ready for a day of frenzied trading. Ibu Oka’s, as an Ubud tourist destination, is second only to the Monkey Forest, with bus loads of tourists pouring in to this crowded space to sample her tender meat. You can have the regular sized portion, or for gluttons like me, you can load up on the deluxe serve, topped with a huge slab of crispy pork crackling. If you are going to indulge, you might as well do it properly.

 

Between you and me, I seldom ate pork until I came to Bali. Rumours that Australian pig is fed on jelly-beans and anti-biotics frankly didn’t appeal but in Bali these cute little “Babes” are fed on a vegetarian diet of cooked banana trunk and sweet potato leaves. And you can taste the difference.

 

Suckling Pig is a multi-levelled taste sensation of tender meat, fresh spices and virgin coconut oil. When I was last at Ibu Oka’s, a tiny Grandma wandered in from the mountains carrying a jerry-can of fresh coconut oil. “We order our coconut oil from this old woman from Payangan” said one of the roasters. “She makes the finest we can find.”

 

As you know, I am a big fan of coconut oil and believe it is fundamental to the overall flavour of Balinese food, it kick-starts all those the wild fragrances into something heavenly.  Along with the fresh oil and spices, is the organic stuffing of  cassava leaves. While the pig is slowly turning, a mix of coconut oil and turmeric is used to baste the skin, adding a golden glow and a crispy finish. And it doesn’t stop there. At Ibu Oka’s , the suckling pig is roasted over tender coffee wood and coconut husks to add extra flavour and aroma.

 

Of course, there are other wonderful Balinese specialties you can make for Christmas or the New Year. Smoked Duck is a perennial favourite and Roast Chicken rubbed with Balinese spices and served with sambal matah is a winner. Or how about Roast Turkey stuffed with yellow rice or Roast Lamb basted with kecap manis, cracked pepper and lime leaves.

 

The foods that promote life, vitality, strength, health,

joy and cheerfulness,

which are sweet, soft, nourishing and agreeable

are favoured by the pure

Bhagavad Gita 17-8

 

So getting back to the joy of celebration. The eloquent Krishna proffered this quote to his ever-faithful fan, Arjuna, about the virtues of good food. Food embodies something far greater than just a taste sensation and feasting with friends and family is more than just bringing pleasure to the table. A gathering such as this enters our snug inner sanctum that keeps our heart and soul in love: in love with a world that provides and nurtures and in love with humanity. I have often said that the saddest people on the planet are those with eating disorders because they choose to shun a part of life that can lead to such great happiness.

 

So take my advice and cook up Christmas lunch for family and friends. Spare no expense. In fact, treat it like a Balinese ceremony and make it a happy, busy, noisy affair with loads of laughter and merriment. Because, as they say, what goes around comes around. And even if you can’t offer the finest meal, it will still taste sublime because the spirit of the event will turn it into something unforgettable.

 

And here’s a little Christmas present to serve with your Christmas Feast.

 

SAMBAL MATAH

Raw chilli seasoning

 

This is a deliciously crisp, crunchy sambal, with lashings of kaffir lime, lemongrass and ginger adding to that culinary wow factor. It’s a great accompaniment to roast chicken, summer salads and just about anything char-grilled!

 

INGREDIENTS :

5 shallots                                                         3 tbs oil

1 large red chilli, seeds removed               1 tsp grated ginger

5 small chillies, seeds removed                 5 kaffir lime leaves

1 tsp torch ginger bud, chopped                sea salt to taste  

½ tsp shrimp paste, roasted                    1 lemongrass stalk                          

1 tsp torch ginger shoot, chopped                   

 

Slice the shallots finely. Mix robustly with a teaspoon of salt to extract any bitterness.

You don’t need to wash out the salt.

Chop the ginger, lemongrass, lime leaves and chilli very finely.

Mix all the ingredients thoroughly; making sure the shrimp paste is blended in. Check seasonings.

Note : Wash hands thoroughly after handling these ingredients. If chilli burns your skin, rub oil on the spot.

Coconut oil is the preferred oil for this sambal.

 

 

Selamat Hari Natal dan Tahun Baru.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

I wish you all a Feast of love, good health and happiness.

Cheers and I will see you in the New Year.

 

Matur Suksme